Kenwood VHF Radios

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86cherokeexj799
Posts: 10
Joined: Tue Feb 27, 2018 8:24 pm

Kenwood VHF Radios

Post by 86cherokeexj799 » Tue Apr 03, 2018 3:18 pm

Mexico happened and we learned how nice a 110w VHF radio is. We had a few vehicles with 50w radios and one with a 110w radio. There was a significant difference in audio quality and the ability to reach out in distance. We could hear them clearly still and they couldn't hear us at all. It was then we decided we needed some 110w radios. So we went to eBay and bought Kenwood TK-790H radios with remote mount heads.

Overview:
Kenwood makes several variants of the TK-X90 radios. These are all heavy duty, Mil-spec environmentally rated radios. The TK-690 is basically 30MHz-50MHz, the TK-790 is 136MHz-174MHz and the TK-890 is 400-500MHz. I am going to focus on TK-790 variant, but all of this applies to the 690 and 890, and all of the accessories can be used with the 690 and 890.

Rear of main radio body:
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The 4 pin connector, lower left, is power input. 2 positive and 2 negative. 15amp fuses on both the positives. Above that is the 9 pin molex connector. The 25 pin d sub connector is top right. The antenna coax is lower right.


Highpower vs standard power (110w vs 45w)
The TK-790 comes in standard (TK-790) and high power (TK-790H). The standard is 45w, the H is 110w. The standard is about the size of a normal VHF radio. Either variant can come with a fixed head (head and radio body are one piece) or remote mount head (radio body attached by cable to just the display). The 45w is most commonly made with a fixed head, the 110w is most common remote mount.

110w remote head:
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45w fixed head:
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Fixed head 45w vs fixed head 110w:
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Simple head vs Complex Head add pictures
The head on either radio can be either a KCH-10 (simple head) or a KCH-11 (complex head). The simple head has a built in speaker. The complex head does not. The complex head has a bigger display and more buttons. For our application, the simple head is the better option, but it is much less common and more difficult to find. The biggest issue with the complex head is it requires the use of a remote mount speaker. The simple head does not require an external speaker.

Simple Head:
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Complex Head:
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Rear of Remote Head:
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Access cover removed:
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Rear cover of remote head removed: You can see the connector and the ground wire.
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Internal (simple head) vs external speaker:
If you have the simple head, you can use either the internal or an external speaker. For internal speaker use, there is a 9 pin (pin diameter .062) molex connector on the back of the main radio body. On this connector, you would need a jumper between pin 3 and 6 . If you use an external speaker (KES-4 or KES-5), you put the black lead in pin 2, black and white lead in pin 6. It shouldn't matter which cable goes where as long as it's pin 2 and pin 6. It is very important that you use pin 2 and 6 though, you cannot just ground one side of the speaker. You can also use the 12 pin molox connector on the back of the remote mount head to power the remote mount speaker. This is pin 10 and 11. If you use the remote mount head, the speaker power will be limited 5W. Coming from the 9 pin on the main radio will get you 13W. You cannot use the 12 pin connector if you are using a simple head; must use the 9 pin on the main radio. If for some reason (like using an intercom, or an in cab and outside speaker) you want to use 2 speaker outputs, see the section below for using 2 speaker outputs just below the intercom section.
See the simple head pictures above for internal speaker.

External speaker:
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eBay purchasing:
If you want a good affordable radio, either the standard or the high power versions will work. The standard is much easier to mount, and can generally be had for about $180 including everything you need. The high power version is significantly larger and more difficult to find space to mount but can reach out to distances a lot better. It can generally be had for about $300-$350, although occasionally I have seen the complete setup on eBay for about $200. It is easy to get suckered into a high power radio on eBay that looks like a great deal but isn't. We bought 3 TK-790H radios with remote mount heads for $200 each, thinking it was a great deal. They came in and didn't have the cable to the remote head ($80), speaker ($40), mounting bracket ($50), power cable ($15) or microphone ($80). The great deal wasn't so great after buying all the other crap that didn't come with. It still wasn't terrible, especially considering these radios go for about $1300 brand new from PCI. Point being, be careful what you're buying, look at the pictures really well and ask questions of the seller. Parts are plentiful, but add up quickly.

Intercom:
These do work with an intercom, however you have to do some internal modification. I took mine to JES and Sons in Indy to do the soldering on the circuit card. There is a zero ohm resistor, basically a jumper, that is soldered to a circuit board inside the radio. This resistor can either be put on the circuit card at R640 or R641. It should be configured in "data" mode originally. The resistor will be present on R641 for this configuration. To work with the intercom, it needs to be removed from R641 and put onto R640. This configures the radio to accept an external microphone source.
After fixing the resistor, you change the programming of the radio to accept an external push to talk source. I used a Rugged Radio harness to go to the Rugged intercom. This harness has a 25 pin d sub connector that interfaces with the back of the radio and a 9 pin molex connector that interfaces with the back of the radio. The molex connector has 2 pins used, the speaker output pins. The 25 pin D sub has 3 pins used. There is mic+ (pin 13), mic- (pin 25), and external push to talk (pin 2). In the programming of the radio, there is a "Edit" tab, in the dropdown is a section called "Function Port". Within that is a section there is a few rows for "Head" functions, then several rows for "Radio" functions. For the Rugged harness, set Radio AI1 to "Ext PTT" so that the radio will know to look on that pin for external PTT input. PCI makes a jumper also, I believe it uses only the 12 pin connector on the back of the remote mount head. I don't know much about this but I would guess you set Head AI1 to "Ext PTT". The biggest issue I have with the intercom is that it turns off the speaker function and the external microphone function, so you can only hear or talk through the intercom helmets unless you set the radio up for 2 speaker outputs.
Ext PTT set: You can set any of these inputs/outputs to different functions from the dropdown menu.
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Using 2 Speaker Outputs (for intercom, PA system speaker, etc.):
I played with radios tonight and found that I can switch between multiple speakers from the face of the radio. This is hugely beneficial for an intercom situation, but can also be used if you have a radio mounted inside of a pickup or something and want to mount an external speaker, you could then switch between the two by pushing a button. Focusing on the intercom application: The molex 9 pin connector on the rear of the main radio body has 2 speaker outputs. Speaker A is the primary, Speaker B is the backup. They call Speaker B the PA speaker. The speaker A uses pin 2 and pin 6. Speaker B uses pin 7 and 8.

If you have a complex head without a built in speaker, the Rugged jumper uses Speaker A output for the intercom, so you can put the KES-4 speaker leads into pin 7 and 8 and then program the radio to have a button be "internal/external speaker". Then when you hit this button, an indicator on the display lights up and it provides speaker output to Speaker B, your external speaker and you can hear the incoming transmissions without having a helmet on. When you are on Speaker A, the incoming transmissions go to the intercom and into your helmet.

If you have a simple head, you need remove the speaker output from pin 2 and 6 from the Rugged harness, put them into pin 7 and 8, and then jump pin 3 and 6 together. The set a key to "internal/external speaker" in the programming. This configuration will setup the intercom helmet output as speaker B and the built in speaker in the simple head as the primary speaker. You will most likely need to hit the "internal/external speaker" button every time you turn the radio on. Kind of a pain but best I can come up with now.

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Last edited by 86cherokeexj799 on Tue Apr 17, 2018 9:59 am, edited 9 times in total.

86cherokeexj799
Posts: 10
Joined: Tue Feb 27, 2018 8:24 pm

Re: Kenwood VHF Radios

Post by 86cherokeexj799 » Tue Apr 03, 2018 10:22 pm

Parts List:

110W radio: TK-790H, $200-$400
45W radio: TK-790, $180
Programming Software: KPG-44D, $40
Programming Cable: KPG-43, $30
Mounting Bracket: KMB-9, $45 (nicer unit, can remove the radio tools free)
Mounting Bracket: KMB-5 $15, Simple mounting with screws to remove radio
Microphone: KMC-27, $90
Control Head bracket: (no Kenwood pn?), $15
25ft Control Head Cable: KCT-22M3, $90
17ft Control Head Cable: KCT-22M2
8ft Control Head Cable: KCT-22M, $80
Speaker: KES-5, $30, KES-4, $30 (I used KES-5, KES-4 should work also)
Power Cable: (TK-790H, 4 pins) 23ft, KCT-23M4, KCT-23M2, 10ft, $15
Power Cable: (TK-790, 2 pins) KCT-23, $15
Simple control head: KCH-10, $50-$80
Full Feature control Head: KCH-11, $40
Remote Head kit: KRK-5 (if you have a fixed head and want to remote mount, you need this), $90, (most often this does not include the cable, KCT22M, additional $80-$90)
Molex Pin Extractor: 11-03-0002, $20
Molex 12 pin connector:. Mouser pn 538-03-06-2122, Molex pn 03-06-2122
Molex 9 pin connector: Mouser pn 538-03-06-2092, Molex pn 03-06-2092
Molex male crimp on pins: Mouser pn 538-02-06-2103, Molex pn 02-06-2103
Last edited by 86cherokeexj799 on Mon Jan 06, 2020 7:58 pm, edited 4 times in total.

keepviper13
Posts: 17
Joined: Mon Feb 26, 2018 3:32 pm

Re: Kenwood VHF Radios

Post by keepviper13 » Wed Apr 11, 2018 12:07 pm

This is the type of tech I was hoping to gather on a board again. Thanks Dave!

86cherokeexj799
Posts: 10
Joined: Tue Feb 27, 2018 8:24 pm

Re: Kenwood VHF Radios

Post by 86cherokeexj799 » Mon Apr 16, 2018 10:12 pm

Programming:
You can program these radios pretty easily yourself. You need a cable (KPG-43) and the software. You can buy the software ($40), you might be able to download it from ehamfiles.com. The software is pretty easy to use, pretty intuitive. I have a baseline file with all the frequencies and baseline settings. You can tweak a lot of stuff, from startup text, to frequency groups, to scanning priorities, to button designations.


Key Assignment, you can set the keys here to do different things in the programming.
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The buttons on the front of the display can be changed out. Using a small flathead screwdriver, pocket knife, small pick etc. you can pry the button out from the bottom:
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Back to programming, Here is optional features. You can set the text you want to display when you turn the radio on, you can change the default squelch, volume, what happens when you get to the end of scrolling through channels (roll over). Many things here that are just preference and won't do much. I'm not sure what all the checkboxes do, I have turned them on and off and they didn't seem to change much.
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Important note about programming this thing. It has 2 ways to organize frequencies in the radio. First is Groups. It has 160 groups, each group can have 160 channels programmed into it. Each channel is programmed to a certain frequency and a name for the frequency. The groups have names also. I have mine setup to have a KOH group, a Baja group, and an All group.
Example of my "All" group (I put the KOH stuff in here, the Baja stuff in here, and some other stuff from the Rugged blue radios that I don't normally use such as GMRS frequencies, weather frequencies, etc.)
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Scanning: You can set the radio up to scan a set of channels within the group. The column labeled "SCAN ADD" is how it determines what channels to scan. Delete means it won't scan that channel, Add means it will. So if you have 50 channels in a group, and you want it to only scan Weatherman, Scooby and Branik, put all 50 channels, column Scan Add, to delete except those 3 channels set to Add. Then you setup the radio to have one of the buttons be "scan" it will scan those three channels and if it hears something on any of those 3 channels it will stop and let you listen to that channel until there is no more signal received on that channel. You can adjust these settings on the Optional Feature page, such as how long it delays after hearing something before it jumps back into the scan loop.

If you program in a Delete/Add button on the face of the radio it will allow you just remove and add channels to the scan list from the front of the radio. I haven't messed with this so I don't know what the indicator is to show that the channel is added or removed from the scan list, but I'm sure there must be some type of display indicator for this.

This is under the Model Information tab: need to set this up depending on if you have a single head or dual head, dual band, which TK model it is, full function head or simple head.
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Here is the 9 pin molex pinout (back of radio):
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Here is the 12 pin molex(back of remote mound head):
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25 in d sub connector pinout:
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